A humbling experience in the 'capital of golf'

03-23-2003

With more than 100 holes of superb golf tucked among its 10,000 acres of sand dunes, salt marshes and high-end housing, Kiawah, the low-lying barrier island situated 21 miles southeast of Charleston, S.C., must rank as the "capital of golf."

As I discovered during a brief visit there last week, it's a great place to get rid of old golf balls.

Like many others, I have always found golf a humbling game, one that drives otherwise sane people to explosive frustration. Although I own a bag full of consecutively numbered clubs, I'm hesitant to call myself a player, never having made the investment to become more than an occasional hacker. In fact, I'm sympathetic to Mark Twain's description of golf as a "good walk spoiled."

My son, Ben, on the other hand, has had a passionate obsession with the game since he started playing two years ago. In his brief career, he's already played more rounds than I have or am likely to do. We were proud last fall when he made his high school golf team as a freshman, and even supportive as he practiced his swing in the basement during the long winter.

So when offered a chance to play several rounds at Kiawah after a weekend travel editors conference in Charleston, I thought it a great chance for a little father-son bonding, not to mention a nifty 15th birthday present. I bought Ben an airline ticket and had him fly down to meet me. Since it was his first solo air trip and involved a quick connection, I was relieved to see him get off the plane in Charleston.

As we arrived at Kiawah on Sunday afternoon, the van driver pointed out the bald eagle nest high in the piney woods by the entrance to the island. Wildlife, as I was to learn, plays an important part in Kiawah's ambiance. To their credit, the resort's developers have had a consistent commitment to preserving the local flora and fauna, balancing the creature comforts of its human residents with those of its resident creatures. Links lakes are lined with snoozing alligators and yellow-slider turtles and are patrolled by herons and snowy egrets. Then there's that magnificent beach, 100 yards wide and 10 miles long, with a gentle profile ideal for idle bobbing and sand so packed that a person can ride a bike along its entire length.

However rich in natural attractions, Kiawah's primary purpose is golf.

A bit of historical background: Owned by the Vanderhorst family for more than 200 years, the island was sold to a lumber baron in 1951 for $125,000. Twenty-three years later, his heirs got $18.2 million for selling it to a Kuwaiti investment group, which built the 150-room Kiawah Island Inn and hired Gary Player to design the Marsh Point golf course. They also began developing other property for private vacation homes. The intention was to transform Kiawah into a premier East Coast golf resort.

A second course opened in 1981. The 6,914 yards of Turtle Point, designed by Jack Nicklaus, were carved into the existing landscape, although dense stands of million-dollar homes have since sprouted all along its manicured fairways.

In 1988, Osprey Point, designed by Tom Fazio opened, and three years after that, the Pete Dye-designed Ocean Course was unveiled in time to host the 1991 Ryder Cup. Unfolding neatly among the natural dunes, marshes and ponds fronting the Atlantic, the 7,296-yard, par-72 layout reportedly features more oceanside holes than any other course in the northern hemisphere.

In the wake of the Persian Gulf War, a Charleston-based investment group purchased the resort properties, which in addition to the inn and golf courses then included extensive tennis facilities and more than 500 vacation villas and luxury homes in 1993. Eight restaurants and golf club grilles complete the island's culinary offerings, including the Atlantic Dining Room, which boasts a AAA Four Diamond rating.

Among its initial developments, the group hired Gary Player to redesign his Marsh Point course, which in 1996 reopened as Cougar Point. More recently, the Resort has purchased the Clyde Johnson-designed Oak Point course, which lies just off the island near Kiawah's entrance.

As if all that wasn't enough, Kiawah Island Resorts is now building a super luxury, oceanfront hotel and spa with 255 guest rooms and more amenities than anyone could imagine. Called the Sanctuary, it's slated to open next March.

In short, when it comes to golf, Kiawah is definitely world-class, while my golf skills fall considerably short of that measure.

When we teed off at Cougar Point at 3 p.m. that Sunday, I admit to a certain trepidation, especially as my first drive soared off into parts unknown. Ben knocked his ball straight down the middle of the fairway farther than I could follow. That set the tone for the play that followed, although after several holes, my dwindling collection of balls became somewhat more obedient. My frustration was tempered by Ben's appreciation and enjoyment of the challenging course and sunny afternoon.

The 100 balls I hit on the practice range prior to teeing off at Turtle Point the following afternoon didn't help my game. When my shots had any altitude at all, they made a beeline to the nearest body of water or high-priced real estate. After nine holes of spray shots, I put my drivers away, relying on my three iron for just about everything short of the green. That tactic increased my shot count, but it reduced the number of balls I lost.

Despite the Zen attitude I tried to embrace about enjoying the day and surroundings, as I inched my way to the 18th green, I was questioning whether I really wanted to attempt the infamous Ocean Course the next morning. Ben, however, was licking his chops for more, even as he licked the blisters that formed at the base of his thumbs.

The twists and turns of the landscape coupled with the constantly changing winds have earned Kiawah's Ocean Course a reputation for driving even professional golfers to tears. When I suggested to Ben the following morning at breakfast that it might be more enjoyable if I accompanied him as an observer rather than a player, he gave me a look that caused me to reconsider my fears.

As it turned out, my son was right.

It may have been the reassurance of the low-key caddie who deftly guided us through the green carpeted obstacle course. Perhaps it was the expansive, glorious oceanscape lining the route that had a calming effect. Or maybe it was my willingness to eschew certain tee shots that required sending the ball over more than 100 yards of liquid before reaching dry land. Whatever the reason, I enjoyed those 18 holes more than any others I have ever played. I even shot fairly decently, scoring several legitimate pars and losing only a half-dozen balls.

When the round was over and we sat on the outdoor patio of the clubhouse, I ordered a Palmetto Amber beer and took in the view of the fictional 18th hole constructed for the final scenes of the movie "The Legend of Bagger Vance."

I don't know if I'm ready to label myself as a golfer, but I definitely understand what makes people love the game.

For information on Kiawah Island Resort, call 1-800-654-2924 or visit www.kiawahresort.com.

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