The Traveler's Journal  
Travel Articles by David Bear
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Two Wrights can't be wrong

03-31-2002

The American Institute of Architects has labeled Frank Lloyd Wright "the most influential American architect of all time."

Born in 1867, he developed radically new designs and building styles based on natural forms. Even today, 43 years after his death, Wright's work continues to inspire architects and captivate people.

Wright wrought his mystique across America and around the world during his prolific 70-year career, designing both commercial buildings and homes.

But Pittsburghers don't have to travel very far to appreciate his genius. Indeed, Western Pennsylvania is well-endowed with the Wright stuff.

Fallingwater, designed for department store owner Edgar Kaufmann, is widely considered to be Wright's residential masterpiece and is arguably the most famous 20th-century home in the world. Cantilevered over a waterfall of Bear Run, a creek in the Laurel Highlands several miles from Ohiopyle on the Youghiogheny River, Fallingwater attracts admirers from around the world.

From his first visit to the site in December 1934, Wright recognized that it offered a perfect setting to express his sense of organic design that blends into the landscape. A building characterized by low, sweeping roof lines hanging over long walls of windows, open rooms and a massive masonry fireplace at the home's heart, Fallingwater took more than five years to complete, but almost instantly, the genius of its design was recognized. In 1945, Fallingwater appeared on the cover of Time Magazine. Since 1963, when the Kaufmann family deeded the property to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy and Fallingwater was opened to the public, more than 6 million people have toured through the building and grounds.

Since last November, Fallingwater has been undergoing extensive renovations designed to strengthen its sagging terraces, address roof leaks and moisture problems and preserve the structure for the ages. Although the renovations continue, Fallingwater opened two weeks last weeks ago for the 2002 season, offering the public a variety of guided tours.

The regular tours, which last about an hour, are conducted from10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays until Thanksgiving weekend. It's closed most Mondays. There's also a two-hour, in-depth tour offered at 8:30 a.m. each day Fallingwater is open. Other special tours are available at various times for groups and children.

Adult tickets for the regular tours are $10 during the week and $15 on the weekend, while the extended tour costs $40 weekdays and $60 weekends. Reduced rates are available for visitors 6 through 18. While not required, advance reservations are definitely a good idea, as tour groups are limited and can fill up quickly on any given day. For reservations call 724-329-8501. More information is available at www. wpconline.org/fallingwaterhome.htm>www. wpconline.org/fallingwaterhome.htm.

But a surprising number of architectural admirers come and go without seeing all the Wright stuff the Laurel Highland area has to offer. In fact, another residential masterpiece of the great American architect is located less than 10 miles away.

Sited on the brow of Kentuck Knob, a rocky hill high over the Youghiogheny River valley just south of Ohiopyle, is the house built by I.N. and Bernadette Hagan. Owners of the Hagan Ice Cream Company of Uniontown, the Hagans became acquainted with the Kaufmanns in the early 1950s and were intrigued by Fallingwater during several visits. Eventually, they asked Wright to design a home for them on an 79 acre tract of wooded land they had purchased at Chalk Hill. After visiting Wright several times at Taliesin, his Wisconsin enclave, Hagan eventually convinced the architect to design a home for them.

Though more modest in artistic vision than Fallingwater, the plans Wright produced for the Hagans were a pure expression of the Usonian principles he espoused over the final three decades of his life. Rather than grand residences for wealthy people staffed by servants, Wright envisioned low-cost, single-floor one-family residences that combined a variety of common aesthetic and ecological influences.

Built around a hexagonal grid courtyard, the Hagan's single-story, three-bedroom home was a superbly crafted execution of Wright's vision, constructed with native sandstone, tidewater cypress and copper roofing. Rather than siting the house on the top of the hill, where the view would have been better, Wright nestled it just below the brow, allowing it to fit into the landscape rather than dominating it.

Throughout his career, Wright had a reputation for being inflexible in the execution of his vision, but he was willing to bend a bit to accommodate the wishes of the Hagans, slightly raising the ceiling height, enlarging the kitchen area, and adding a small basement. He also listened to the advice of Herman Mayer, the local contractor the Hagans hired to oversee construction of the house, adding extra supports to strengthen the roof line.

The Hagans moved into the house in 1956, and lived in and loved it for nearly 30 years, until health concerns impelled them to move back into town.

Kentuck Knob's present owners are Lord and Lady Palumbo, English art and architecture patrons who purchased it in 1995. In addition to refurbishing the house and restoring to its designer's vision and furnishing it with their personal art and artifacts, they've replanted the gardens. In 1996, they opened Kentuck Knob for public tours and appreciation. March through November, one-hour tours are offered 10 a.m. through 4 p.m. every day but Mondays. Adult tours are $10 weekdays and $15 on the weekend, with special rates for children 6 to 18. More in-depth tours are offered at 8:30 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Visitors should allow at least two hours to tour the house and grounds.

Though certainly less illustrious than Fallingwater, Kentuck Knob is a well built and well maintained example of the master's work adapted to the needs and desires of regular people. It is a home, rather than an icon, and in that regard, offers a revealing counterpoint to its better known neighbor.

For Kentuck Knob reservations and information, call 724-329-1901. The Web site is www.kentuckknob.com.


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