Culturally, Santa Fe doesn't trail at all

Forget that the farolito tradition dates only from 1971, when neighborhood associations started setting them out to celebrate passage of a zoning ordinance. Or that most of the bag lights are semi-permanent, ceramic fixtures more properly called "electro-litos."

Still, it is slightly amazing how beautiful and tranquil the heart of a steadily growing state capital can be.

Santa Fe touts itself as "The City Different," and as my wife, Sari, and I discovered during an early November vacation there, it lives up to that billing. We spent six days exploring the city and its surrounding desert and mountains, and we only scratched the surface of what there is to do.

Although this sprawling settlement of 65,000 people situated at base of the tailbone of the Rockies hosts more than a million visitors a year, its historical center -- the Plaza -- still has the casual look, feel and pace of a quiet Southwestern town. It's a place where blue jeans and cowboy boots can be worn everywhere, from flea markets to the finest restaurants.

Founded in 1609 by Spanish pioneers from Mexico, Santa Fe is the second-oldest city in the United States (after St. Augustine, Fla.) as well as the country's highest and oldest capital. For centuries a Wild West outpost, it began developing its reputation as a laid-back tourist town 80 years ago by focusing on its splendid setting, historic past and arts and crafts heritage. That commitment has earned it the distinction of being the only UNESCO creative city in the United States, specializing in folk art.

Farolitos light Santa Fe.

Mark Nohl/New Mexico Department of Tourism Santa Fe's Indian Market is an internationally famous event, drawing a crowd from all around the globe to the city's historic plaza each August. Click photo for larger image.

The modern Plaza's architectural integrity is no accident. Since the 1920s Santa Fe's adobe building codes have been strictly enforced. Though now adapted to house chic art galleries and upscale shops, all of the building renovations in the central area must be faithful to the original. No new structures can be erected unless they are in the Pueblo or territorial styles. Even the domeless state Capitol building was built in the shape of a Zia, a Pueblo Indian sun symbol and religious emblem.

As a result, the Plaza today looks more like its Spanish Colonial antecedent than it did a century ago.

For the most part, Santa Fe is a walking town, with the bulk of what there is to see situated within 10 blocks of the Plaza. The Christmas season is enthusiastically observed in Santa Fe, but with a distinctive Southwest twist; strong Indian and Hispanic influences hold sway. Red and green are the prevailing colors, but they're expressed in chili peppers instead of holly and fir.

Despite our concerns about a visit so late in the year, our week's weather was wonderful, 65 and sunny every day and low 40s at night with clear skies. We were staying at the quirky, charming Posada de Santa Fe just two blocks from the Plaza, which made it easy for us to get around. We strolled to museums, galleries and restaurants, getting to know our way around and still allow ourselves time to enjoy our pleasurable accommodations.