Appalachian Trail experience invigorates, empowers hiker

"The Fountain of Youth" is how Greg Baltus referred to the 4 1/2 months he spent hiking the Appalachian Trail.

Readers may recall the profile I wrote shortly before the 30-year-old Uptown resident left for his meticulously planned expedition. He began hiking April 6 at Springer Mountain in Georgia. On Aug. 20, Mr. Baltus scrambled through cold mists to the top of Mount Katahdin in Maine, becoming this year's 133rd through-hiker to complete the trail's entire 2,174.6 miles. I caught up with him last week on his return to Pittsburgh.

Like many Appalachian Trail hikers, Mr. Baltus adopted a trail name. His was "Master Plan," and by most measures, his 137-day expedition went according to the plan he had developed.

One element that proved more problematic than expected was accessing a special Web site, Trailposts.com, which had been developed to let him post online journals of his progress and experiences. Finding Internet access in towns along the way turned out to be difficult, and he wound up posting only 10 entries. Still he did enjoy getting e-mail messages from well-wishers when he was able to log on.

Being fit and traveling light, carrying only about 12 pounds of equipment and food, Mr. Baltus was able to average about 20 miles for the days that he walked. To keep from wearing himself out, he took at least one day off each week for R&R, as well as fitting in two "mini-vacations."

Though quick, his pace varied according to the terrain. On his farthest day, a fast, flat dash through eastern Pennsylvania, he covered 46 miles, a total he approached on several other occasions. However on other stretches, such as the steep White Mountains of New Hampshire, he managed 10 to 12 miles a day.

He spent most nights on the trail in lean-to shelters sharing floor space with whomever showed up. The biggest problem for him was snorers, so about one night out of every four he found a bed in inexpensive hiker hostels or motels in towns and villages near the trail, where he could also shower and re-supply.

He encountered many hikers along the way, some of whom became regular trail comrades. "Being completely removed from your normal associations," he said, "makes it easy to meet new people. When you share a common experience, friendships form quickly, along with a sense of community. Then you move on."

Mr. Baltus also noted that he met few through-hikers his own age, speculating that because of the difficulty of clearing their schedules for four to six months, most tended to be either recently graduated students or retirees.

He stayed healthy. About a week into the trip, a mild case of shin splints had him worried, but resting two days eased that condition. He also overcame assorted blisters and bruises, as well as a bit of tendinitis in his Achilles heel. The worst incident was a hairline fracture of his wrist about 10 days from the end of the hike, when his toe caught on a root as he descended a grade, and he fell hard. But he wrapped the wrist in an Ace bandage and continued.

His well-planned equipment also held up well. He walked through three pairs of shoes. When other gear wore out, he was able to replace it en route, adapt or do without. In general, the farther he walked the less equipment he found he needed.

Although Mr. Baltus says he never thought about quitting, there were hard days. For example, crossing the Franconia Range in New Hampshire, he recalled walking for six miles above the tree line in steady rain and hail that made the going treacherous.

For him, the trail's best stretch was through Maine's 100-Mile Wilderness. "The weather was just great, the scenery incredible, and I had a sense of nearing the finish line." The least pleasant part of the trail to be the "swamps" of northwest New Jersey.

Beyond the Appalachian Trail, he hopes someday to tackle some of America's other trails, such as the Continental Divide Trail (along the Rockies) or the Pacific Crest Trail (along the Sierras).

"It was an awesome experience," he said about his trip overall. "I feel reinvigorated by the healthiness of being outdoors, with constant exercise and simple food. The longer you walk, the healthier you get, and the worries of normal life tend to fade away."

He also felt empowered. "I realize I can apply the same strategies I learned on the trail to my life. By focusing only on each day's goals, overcoming real obstacles, hiking becomes a series of incremental accomplishments. If the weather turns bad, you deal with it, rather than letting it dictate your schedule."