Sailing around the Mediterranean

02-26-2006

LA GOULETTE, Tunisia -- As Captain Timothy Roberts maneuvered the great five-masted vessel past the breakwater of La Goulette harbor and into the broad Gulf of Tunis, the transformation was magical. With a stiff, 40-knot gale raking steadily eastward across the Mediterranean, he unfurled the ship's seven triangular sails, and instantly, it seemed to me, the Wind Surf reared up and began ripping across the endless ranks of white-capped waves.

Windstar Cruises The 535-foot-long Wind Surf cuts an impressive figure under full sail, reaching speeds of up to 15 knots. More informationFor more information, contact www.windstarcruises.com or 1-800-258-7245.

A week's worth of cloudless sunshine, interesting ports, good food, friendly service and congenial fellow passengers notwithstanding, this was the moment for which I and, I suspect, most of my fellow shipmates had come. We were running before the wind, feeling the roll of deep water beneath our keel.

That's an experience one might expect on a sleek sailboat, but not on a 535-foot-long cruise ship carrying 308 passengers.

Here are snapshots of the ports we visited.

The Isle of Capri

As we were having lunch the first day, the double-humped Isle of Capri loomed larger on the horizon. Situated several miles off the peninsula that separates the Gulf of Naples and the Gulf of Sorrento, Capri has been a place of romance and myth since before the Roman emperor Tiberius built his dream palace on the high cliff at the island's eastern end. The popular vacation escape for ancient Romans regained its reputation during recent centuries, made famous first for its Blue Grotto and in later years for the antics of its jet-set habitu?s.

Rather than taking one of the ship's organized excursions, we decided to explore on our own. On the pier, we bought tickets for the short funicular ride up to the town of Capri, situated on the saddle between the island's two peaks. Chic and picturesque, its narrow streets and stucco walls are lined with expensive galleries and boutiques, and buzzing with people.

We decided to hike what seemed on the map to be no more than a mile up to the ruins of the Temple of Jove, the estate of the Emperor Tiberius. There was no road, but after an hour's steep, sweaty climb up through Capri's tangle of narrow concrete and stone paved pathways, we found our way to the peak.

Though it must have been a magnificent edifice, Tiberius' villa today offers only ruined foundations as evidence of its former grandeur. But the panorama from its front porch is still world class, a sheer cliff falling into the sea overlooking the Bays of Naples and Salerno, with tiny ships darting around leaving a lace of white wakes on the azure waters.

David Bear Interior of a building in Pompeii.

Rambling around the rest of the afternoon, rather than trying to find a restaurant in the still thronging village we decided to head back to the ship. Our timing was perfect. Just as we were climbing the steps up from the tender, the sun was setting right off Capri's corner, like a ball of molten lava melting into the sea. Talk about romantic.

Sorrento

I was up on the top deck early the next morning as the Wind Surf slid toward the town of Sorrento, wreathed in bands of rising steam I took to be thermal activity.

Draped along the edge of a sea bluff 20 miles south of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius, Sorrento has also been a resort destination for centuries, especially for European intellectuals, like Ibsen, Nietzsche, Wagner and Maxim Gorky.

The ship was scheduled to be in port until 4 o'clock, and we had signed up for the morning tour to the ruins of Pompeii, a 40-minute drive away. Off by 8:30 for tender ride to the pier, we boarded a small bus for a short shuttle up into town, where we climbed on a larger bus for the scenic ride along the coastal cliffs to the site of the Roman town that was buried in ash by Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D., along with some 2000 of its inhabitants.

	The streets of Pompeii.

For two hours, we followed a route through several streets, poking into the ruins of various homes and public buildings that had withstood the devastation and centuries of entombment. I was somewhat surprised to discover the excavations open to the sky, imagining somehow that there would be some sort of tunneling. During the eruption, which lasted two days, buildings with wooden roofs had collapsed and most vertical elements, such as columns, were tumbled, but many masonry walls remained. Vaulted structures with masonry ceilings, such as elements of the public baths, had survived, and these are the places where traces of original frescoes are still visible.

Visitors had come from many different countries, judging by the languages of the guides leading the dozens of other groups we encountered. In fact, it became something of a contest to figure out what they were speaking.

Back in Sorrento by 1 p.m., we enjoyed an excellent lunch at a sidewalk table on the main square of the charming resort town and watched a steady stream of sunny people flow by. That left us just enough time for a stroll through the narrow, shop-lined walkways of the old quarter before heading back to the Wind Surf moored so picturesquely in the harbor. While we had only sampled tastes of Pompeii and Sorrento, we enjoyed the excursions and had filled in two more places on our personal life lists of places.

Lipari

The next day's destination was Lipari, the largest of the seven Aeolian islands of volcanic origin off Sicily's northeast coast, as well as its small port of the same name. The town and its prominent fortress are the island's main event, but it was early in the morning, and we were up for another self-guided adventure.

The beachside village of Canneto.

We decided to explore the 14-square-mile island by local bus rather than taking one of the organized tours. Since there was only road around the perimeter of the precipitous island, we were confident of not getting too lost.

So we hopped the bus to Quattropani, a village on the far side of the island. The bus was so crowded with local people, I had to stand in the stairwell beside the driver. But that gave me an appreciation for his skills, as well as a great view of the narrow road that switched back and forth into the dry hills. We were buddies 40 minutes later when he stopped the bus and made it clear we had arrived at the last stop, which was nothing more than a turnaround, with no buildings anywhere. "Quattropani," the driver said, pointing to a cluster of houses on the coast far below.

Since our map indicated the road continued to the town of Aquacaldo, maybe two, not more than three miles farther, we decided to walk. Over the next hour we wandered down the road with the silent, stupendous sea vista dotted by the other Aeolian islands, Panarea, Salina, Vulcano and Stromboli. In that time, only two cars passed. Otherwise, we had it all to ourselves.

Just as we were entering the small industrial port of Aquacaldo, we spotted a bus pulling in and, mindful of not getting stranded and missing the ship's 4 p.m. departure, decided to jump on. Fifteen minutes later, we were at the more inviting seaside village of Canneto, with a long, pebbly beach fronted by small hotels, cafes and shops. So we got off and found a taverna, where we had a truly delicious lunch.

From there it was just a 40-minute stroll back to Lipari, where we arrived with an hour to spare. That was enough time for a quick reconnoiter through the town's 16th-century streets, peeking into the fortress walls of the Castello and its Museo Eolianio, before catching the last tender back.

	A street scene in Cefalu.

Later, as the Wind Surf cruised around the island, we could see the route we had walked and felt a sense of accomplishment. We had successfully circumnavigated Lipari and even managed to place a call home from a public phone.

And the final treat came about 9:30 that evening, as the ship circled in the darkness maybe a mile off Stromboli. The island, a classic volcanic cone, 3000 feet (920 meters) high, seemed unpopulated, except for small clusters of fishing houses here and there along the waterline. Then in the darkness, a plume of fire suddenly spurted from the peak, fountaining straight up in iridescent flames, for maybe 20 seconds before fading back into blackness, with only a faint glow to mark the spot. It was followed five to 10 minutes later by another eruption, a fairly common pattern reminiscent of Old Faithful.

Most of the ship's lights had been switched off, and we watched for maybe 90 minutes from the front of the bridge, waiting for the next eruption and chatting with Captain Roberts, a most personable Brit. A mate also led us into the bridge, for a quick tour and explanation of some of the navigational gear, a permission apparently only possible because the Wind Surf is registered in the Bahamas.

Palermo, Sicily

Our next stop was Palermo, Sicily. Here we signed up for the ship's excursion to the old town of Cefalu (pronounced Sef a Loo). It is sited at the base of a blunt-topped coastal peak surmounted by an old fortress and a pre-Roman temple dedicated to the Goddess Diana.

Interior of the grand cathedral in Cefalu.

First the whole bus group popped into the town's cathedral, a 12th-century Norman keep which from the exterior was designed to look the a fortress -- to protect from Saracen raiders.

It was another steep and sweaty climb up to Diana's temple, which really wasn't much more than a collection of standing walls, with one portico entrance which was still intact -- or more likely remounted. Better was the view of Cefalu below, its narrow, medieval streets flanked by four- and five-story buildings packed tightly in next to each other.

Since our bus was heading back after only two hours, we headed back down to the pick-up point. Stopping along the way to buy some small trinkets, spices and lemoncello, we had enough time to sample another of the local specialities, gelato served, as is the local custom, in a brioche, which resembled a hamburger bun. It was novel ice cream sandwich.

Back on the ship, we had a late lunch on board rather than walking around the hot streets of Palermo, which seemed less appetizing. But cruising that evening around Sicily's western edge was pure magic. We were crossing the Mediterranean to Africa, and in the middle of the night, I was awoken by the pitching of the ship. Whitecaps were breaking outside in the dark, the first turbulence we experienced on the so far otherwise calm seas. Since we were on the lower deck, the waves were actually breaking over our porthole, which was kind of neat.

Tunisia

	Rooftops in the walled village of Sidi Bou Said, Tunisia.

The Wind Surf docked in the wharf area at La Goulette, the main harbor of the city of Tunis.

That day's excursion was to the ruins of the city of Carthage, founded by Phoenician traders in 800 BC. The story goes that Queen Dido bargained with the Berber rulers to occupy land covered by a cow's hide -- which she cut into thin strips to encompass the forum -- somewhat surprising.

We saw the ruins of the Baths of Antonius Pius, built in 146 BC, 70 years after the Romans had destroyed the city, razed all the buildings, slaughtered 500,000 residents and salted the earth.

I'd always envisioned Carthage as a wasteland on the edge of the desert, but in fact, its ruins are scattered in and around what is now an upscale suburb, with the Presidential Palace (it is not permitted to take photographs in that direction) and embassy buildings surrounded by lovely gardens planted with jasmine and bougainvillea.

A short ride away, on the top of the hill of Carthage, we toured the ruins of the old Roman forum and city center, with a sweeping panorama and a superb museum of antiquities.

The Wind Surf sails from Tunisia to Malta.

Then we visited the touristic town of Sidi Bou Said (named for the Muslim scholar who founded it in the 12th century). White, sugar-cube houses with blue trim sit on a hilltop just north of Carthage. The place was packed with artisan stalls selling a wide variety of trinkets. We wandered through its narrow stone streets for an hour; quite charming with lots of authenticity, although also clearly tourism dependent.

Running before the wind

The sailing from Tunis to Malta, east across the open Mediterranean, was the most exciting part of the voyage. We departed La Goulette about 4:30 and tacked east, cutting across the rough waves. The first hour and a half was quite rough, with pitching and rolling that was 180 degrees from the smooth sailing we had enjoyed all week.

In our cabin, we watched white caps break over our portholes, then went up to the Star Deck to watch from above. Being higher on the ship, I found the motion of the ocean more pronounced. Just as I was starting to get a bit queasy, the ship turned due east. She was now riding with the wind and waves coming from her stern, so even though the wind stayed up, the ride became much more smooth but no less thrilling. This is why they call it the bounding main.

By the time we went to dinner an hour later, my appetite had returned, although the dining room seemed somewhat emptier than it had on previous calm days of cruising. Since the waves' motion was less pronounced on the lower decks, we slept quite well that night, rocked through dreamland by the steady rolling of the ship.

We awoke the next morning to sunshine for our last afternoon on the Wind Surf. By 11 o'clock we could see in the distance what turned out to be the western end of the Maltese island of Gozo; sheer cliffs rising out of the sea gave it the appearance of a hat box. Sailing along the north coast half a mile out, we had a steady panorama, with the fortress at Victoria (Rabat) and the narrow beach coves.

Then we sailed around the eastern end of Gozo and crossed the channel to Malta. By 1 o'clock we met the harbor pilot, who steered the ship to its berthing in the harbor of Valleta. The high walls of the fortress city towered over the berthing place, with what turned out to be a facade of a line of neat houses along the quay.

 

The Wind Surf may be big for a sailing vessel, but by modern cruise line standards, it's minuscule.

The size of new vessels has grown dramatically in recent years.

When Cunard launched the Queen Elizabeth 2 in 1969 with 1,791 berths, it was considered a big ship. The Queen Mary 2, launched in January 2004, is the world's largest passenger liner, carrying 2,620 berths. But not for long.

In June, Royal Caribbean is launching the Freedom of the Seas, which will carry 3,600 passengers in double cabins. And the line has just unveiled plans for a new ship to be delivered in 2009. Dubbed "Project Genesis," this new ship will accommodate 6,400 passengers.

"Things have completely changed," said Martin B. Deutsch, longtime travel industry observer and veteran of more than 85 cruises. "Thirty years ago, people still took ships to get some place; today, with few exceptions, the entire industry is cruise vacations, and it's become a mass market. These bigger ships serve that market."

Although Mr. Deutsch personally prefers smaller vessels, he has been impressed with the service on mega-ships. "They really have figured out the on-board logistics," he noted, "But I do worry about the impact these behemoths will have on the ports they visit."

Peter Greenberg, travel author and editor on NBC's "Today Show," agrees. "Sept. 11 completely changed the paradigm. Because people were wary of flying, more ships than ever began sailing out of different U.S. ports, such as Philadelphia and Baltimore. To a degree, the cruise destination makes less of a difference."

The industry, he believes, has responded by building ships designed to accommodate the meetings and convention business.

Yet, according to Paul Busang of Gulliver's Travel in Shadyside, many seasoned passengers prefer a smaller experience. "The appeal of a more intimate cruising experience is undeniable. I'd say, the majority of our cruise customers are opting for midsize and smaller deluxe ships."

Mr. Busang also notes a correlation between the size of the ship and the degree of personal attention passengers get.

"There are obviously exceptions," he said, "But, in general, the smaller the ship, the more upscale the experience."

That was what my wife, Sari, and I discovered. We had boarded the Wind Surf five days earlier at the port of Civitavecchia, Italy, about an hour's ride from Rome.

The broad outline of our seven-day, mid-September itinerary had us sailing south along the shin of Italy's boot, along Sicily's north coast, across the Mediterranean to Tunisia, ending on the island of Malta.

In between, we'd be calling on the isle of Capri, the town of Sorrento on the Amalfi coast, the Aeolian island of Lipari and Palermo in Sicily, all destinations new to us.

The Wind Surf is the largest of three motor sailing yachts operated by Windstar Cruises, an innovative company now owned by Holland America Line, itself part of the World's Leading Cruise Lines conglomerate. Both sister ships, the Wind Spirit and Wind Star, are roughly half its size. All three cruise year-round, spending winter and early spring in the Caribbean and Central America and the summer and fall hugging Mediterranean coast lines from Spain's Costa del Sol to Greece's Aegean Isles.

The relatively small size of Windstar vessels lets them access many ports that can't handle the big cruise liners. In most of their cruising grounds, Windstar ships sail seven-day itineraries that allow for two-week voyages without repeating a port of call. Sailing schedules are set to provide passengers plenty of daylight to enjoy and explore ports of call, whether for sightseeing, shopping, beaching or pursuing more active adventures, such as hiking the hills or making use of the water sports platform that is lowered from the ship's stern when the weather's calm.

And although the ships rely on electric motors powered by diesel engines to keep them on schedule, all three are designed to take advantage of any prevailing breeze. The Wind Surf's five 164-foot masts support seven triangular sails that unfurl electronically at the touch of a button. Talk about a natural turbo charger.

Windstar also strives to provide a more intimate passenger experience on its ships, combining the tradition and romance of sailing vessels with a degree of egalitarian amenity and casual grace. In addition to 154 staterooms and suites, the Wind Surf offers two restaurants, a lounge, a spa/salon, small casino, pool, workout rooms, library and Internet center. Most fascinating for sailing buffs, the bridge is generally open to passenger visits.

The Wind Surf's passenger cabins are distributed on the three lower decks, with 31 suites of 377 square feet and 123 staterooms that are half as large, all of which are similarly laid out.

Our stateroom on the third deck was organized efficiently, with a desk and sitting area, a queen-sized bed, and thoughtfully configured bathroom with a sink, toilet and circular shower. The cabin also had a flat-screen plasma TV with a variety of channels and a DVD player. Two porthole windows (all cabins have portholes, but none that open) looked out only a few feet above the water line, which provided interesting perspectives while the ship was underway.

The layout for the three upper decks was easy to understand: the Main Deck with the restaurant, lounge/casino, library, reception and gift shop; the Bridge Deck with the Compass Rose bar, Internet center and the bridge; and the Star Deck, with the Terrace Bar, the fitness center, the Verandah where breakfast and lunch is served when the weather's fine, and a second restaurant, the Bistro.

On the first night with little breeze, we proceeded under engine power, scheduled to reach our first port early the next afternoon. The seas were calm, the ride very smooth, and the sleeping conditions in our dark, quiet cabin were excellent.

Although the cruise clientele was clearly upscale, we generally found fellow passengers to be fairly informal and genial. I was struck by how many of them were repeat customers. Some were taking their fourth or fifth Windstar cruise. Several we met were in the second or third weeklong leg of this particular cruise.

Apparently the ambiance of a smaller ship coupled with the romance of sailing still holds strong appeal. According to Windstar's statistics, its average passenger age is, like us, in their mid-50s, but we met many couples both well below and well above that mark.

One of the best aspects about the notion of cruises is that they let you discover new places, albeit briefly, with a minimum of difficulty. In that alone our Wind Surf experience had earned excellent marks, offering stops at locations we'd be unlikely to visit any other way.

As an example of unique opportunities, from May 21 to June 4 the Wind Surf will sail along the French Riviera, with stops that include calls at the Cannes Film Festival and Monaco Grand Prix.

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