Inside Portugal: "Petisco"--a tasty tidbit

12-31-2008

A monthly newsletter from the Portuguese National Tourism Office

 

January/Janeiro 2009

 

"I never beheld eaters or eateresses... lay about their food with greater intrepidity." William Beckford, on visiting Portugal, 1757

 

We get a lot of questions on Portugal… the weather, the culture, the language, Fado and, of course, the food.

 

Food defines a nation. Italy has pasta.  England has fish and chips. Chicago has deep-dish pizza. So, what's Portugal's food?

 

Like any major European culture, Portugal's cuisine is not frozen in time and place. It grows, evolves and embraces the best of 800 years of flavors and cooking techniques.

 

So let's start at the beginning: The simple, tasty and mysterious Petisco.

 

"Petiscos" refers to small delicacies and are sometimes confused with "tapas'" from the country next door. Instead, think of a savory tidbit. The word itself means "tasty foods." Petiscos are sometimes eaten between meals, as a snack or sample, and are more about quality than quantity.  Petiscos are eaten in company with others. Hence, they are sometimes called "social" foods.

 

++A Tasty Tour of Portugal's Petiscos

 

To get the full experience of Portugal's Petiscos, we will take a tasty trip from north to south, on the mainland and through the islands. One of the staple Portuguese meals is "bacalhau"--a dried, salted cod. Two favorite Petiscos use cod in a different way.  One is cod fritters or Pastéis de Bacalhau.  The other is e Pataniscas de Bacalhau--cod pancakes--that are served with beans. Another countrywide favorite is grilled sardines. Marinated sardines are a common Petisco nationwide. Rissóis de Camarão, or Shrimp Turnovers that are fried and creamy, are another common Petiscos, along with Chouriço Assado (a grilled and spicy Portuguese sausage) and Camarão com Piri-Piri, grilled shrimp in - Piri-Piri pepper.

 

In northern Portugal "broa" is served along with the simplest meals. It is a rich, dark cornbread. Also common in the north are Presuntos, or smoked ham, and handmade sausages.  Roasted tripe is also common, served with beans.

 

The Centro de Portugal Region, between Porto and Lisbon, is home to platters of octopus rice and "chanfana" – goat meat stewed with wine.

 

All of Portugal produces outstanding artisan cheeses, but the country's crowning jewel is the rich sheep's cheese known as "Queijo da Serra", from this region's Estrela Mountains. Other great cheeses that turn up in Petiscos are from Sabugal and Rabaçal.

 

The wide-open Alentejo region and the coastal Algarve region each have distinct Petiscos. "Migas" or breadcrumbs, rich sausages and dark hams are popular in the Alentejo. The Algarve specializes in spicy, grilled seafood, and marinated carrots are another popular dish.

 

On Portugal's Madeira Island, a favorite dish is "Milho Frito," which is fried cubes of polenta.

 

In the Azores, limpets (a shellfish) and croques (a small mollusk unique to the Azores) are local specialties. Chili peppers and paprika are local sources of pride, and fine beef – from the cattle grazing on the islands – is often served grilled or roasted in a wine sauce. Fresh cheese, corn bread, and chicharros (a small fish) in an onion sauce are favorite starters.

 

Some favorite places to grab a Petisco

 

Now you have a brief overview of the Petisco possibilities throughout the country. Here are a few places to try that have developed a reputation for serving Petisco. They are ones with a strong local following, a dedication to local cuisine and a sense of tradition. There are certainly hundreds more possibilities, but those listed below are regarded as great "tascas"--hangouts--in which to savor some dishes with friends. Many of these are in the Centro Region and so are we, so we can vouch for them.

 

SOUTH

 

++Restaurante A Lareira, Alentejo Region

A local legend in the southern Alentejo, this restaurant offers all sorts of rare local lamb recipes. Locals sit by the giant fireplace and share tales while feasting on the local cheese and wines.

 

Restaurante A Lareira

Rua Fialho De Almeida 18 - Castro Verde

7780-190 Castro Verde

 

++Restaurante Monte Alentejano, Alentejo Region

From lamb to fish, to cod to local bread soup, this is an institution of Alentejo cuisine that has drawn fans for generations. Massive murals cover the walls of this landmark eatery, in the shadows of a ruined castle.

 

Restaurante Monte Alentejano

Avenida Gago Coutinho 8 - Montemor-o-Novo 7050-100 Montemor-O-Novo

 

++Restaurante Cozinha de Santo Humberto, Alentejo Region

Visitors find a real taste of traditional meats, stews and cheeses here.  Handmade sausages are the specialty, as well as very authentic local cooking.

 

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